As Morgan’s next celebration approached, I wanted to craft something that captured all the ways she brightens our studio, drives our business forward, and fills our family with warmth. 

The result? A one of a kind ring designed to echo her favourite autumn-toned palette and to whisper, every time it catches the light, just how fiercely she is loved and appreciated.

I’ve always known Morgan is drawn to autumnal hues, the burnished browns and forest deep greens that feel both grounding and elegant. So when we wandered through the Sydney Jewellery Fair one year and she paused before a dress ring crowned with a velvety brown quartz, I wasn’t the least bit surprised.

I tucked the memory of that ring safely away, quietly vowing that when the time was right I’d craft a piece of my own that would echo its autumnal magic while carrying a deeper, more personal story between mother and daughter.

April is Morgan’s birthday month, this was the time to create a gift she would love, so one evening I opened the sketchbook and ran through a stack of concepts built around Morgan’s preference for rounded bands and clean curves. I eliminated any detail that cluttered the design and re-sketched many times before the final concept came to light.

From Sketchbook to Setting

Unlike many jewellers who begin with a gemstone and build the setting around it, I tackle the metalwork first, letting its proportions dictate both the stone’s shape and its eventual placement. Hours slipped by as I tested angles, refined band thickness, and rejected sketches that looked beautiful on paper but would feel awkward on a hand. When the curves finally balanced — neither too delicate nor too heavy — I knew the design was ready for the perfect centre stone.

On another quiet evening, I filled page after page with the rounded silhouettes Morgan loves. Anything that cluttered the profile was struck out; only the cleanest lines remained. Because I always design from metal outward, the finished setting demanded a single, elegant oval ready to cradle a stone that could match its graceful embrace.

The Gemstone 

With an oval seat waiting, it was time to pick the stone. The choice came down to:

1. Smoky Quartz – Pleasing depth but modest brilliance.
   

2. Brown Tourmaline – Rich body colour yet less optical fire.
   

3. Cognac Zircon – Whisky-toned, double-refractive sparkle that could light up a room.
   

I knew oval was the shape, this was dictated by the design. I settled on a brown palette and lined up the candidates, smoky quartz, brown tourmaline and cognac zircon. Cognac zircon won out, its high refractive index packs extra fire into a low-profile oval, exactly what the setting demanded.

Zircon’s optical index (1.81–2.02) meant it would throw rainbow flashes even in a slim, everyday setting exactly what the final design demanded. I hunted specifically for cognac-toned material without red undertones so the ring would read warm, not fiery.

More Information about Zircons

Zircon is one of the most versatile colour gemstones on the market. Natural hues (often intensified or shifted by gentle heat treatment) span the entire autumn-to-rainbow spectrum:

• Colourless/“White” – brilliant, diamond-like sparkle
  

• Ice- or Sky-Blue – the classic heat-treated Sri Lankan blue
  

• Mint to Forest Green – rarer, sometimes with a slight yellow cast
  

• Lemon to Golden Yellow – bright, sun-touched tones
  

• Honey, Champagne & Butterscotch – warm neutrals that bridge yellow and brown
  

• Cognac & Chocolate Brown – deep, whisky-rich shades (my target family)
  

• Orange & Tangerine – vivid autumn leaves
  

• Pink to Rosé – soft blush through medium rose
  

• Lilac to Violet – delicate purples, occasionally pastel grey-lavender
  

• Brick to Fiery Red – bold, seldom seen in clean stones
  

For Morgan’s ring I narrowed the search to a cognac zircon, a rich brown that shows lively flashes without drifting into orange or brick red territory. Specifically, I looked for stones whose body colour stays firmly in the whisky amber range, with no strong red undertones, so the final piece would keep the sophisticated, earthy warmth Morgan loves.

How I sourced the Stone, what was most important to me

Ethics First

Traceability: Partnered with a Sri Lankan dealer who documents mine-to-market provenance.

Gemological Verification: Every stone goes through independent testing — refractive index, birefringence, and a spectroscopy scan to rule out colour-altering treatments beyond gentle heat.

Cut Grade: Only an excellent oval would maximise zircon’s natural dispersion.

Creating the CAD

How Morgan’s Ring Moved from Idea to Reality 

My Sketch Goes Digital: I had our CAD team create the CAD and render — think of it as turning the paper drawing into a 3-D picture on screen.

3-D Model Takes Shape: The band and stone setting are “built” in the software so we can see exactly how thick, smooth, and comfortable everything will be.

Preview/Render: I generated lifelike images of the ring in yellow gold.

Wax Print & Metal Cast: A tiny wax version is 3-D-printed, then used to form a mould. Molten gold (or platinum) is poured in, replacing the wax with real metal.

Polish & Stone-Setting: The cast ring is cleaned, polished, and the gemstone is hand secured by our skilled jewellers. After one final inspection, it’s ready for Morgan to wear.

Final Thoughts

For the ring I personally sought out a richly hued cognac zircon, its oval facet pattern chosen to echo both warmth and sophistication and designed a bespoke setting that cradles the gem like a hug only a mother can give. Every stage, from tracing the gem back to an ethically responsible miner to refining its cut for maximum fire, became a quiet meditation on the countless late nights Morgan spends perfecting client sketches and guiding our atelier.

The finished piece is more than jewellery; it is a tangible thank you, shimmering with gratitude and admiration, reminding her each time it catches the light that the heart of our business beats strongest because of her tireless passion.

Happy Birthday, Morgan. 

With Love,
Your Mum xo